EXPANSION - RING - U-BOLT - INJECTION GLUE - RAP ANCHORS - HOW TO BOLT
Installation of fixed anchors implies a strong responsibility which you should only take if you have suitable experience. The information given here is not to be taken as the be all and end all of bolting facts. This is advice only and the author is not responsible for inaccuracies , mistakes or accidents caused by using this information. Never assume that the person selling the product (or other climbers including us) are giving the right advice. Read the product manuals and contact the manufacturer if there are any doubts.
Before placing bolts in a cliff you must practice at home. Find a piece of portable rock or use your garages cement foundation as a test block. Practice drilling, notching, placing and removing an example of all these types of bolts before deciding on a system. Remember - do not trust the guys in the bolt shops to tell you the right information. They have no idea about dynamic loads related to climbing and will recommend equipment that is not suitable. Bolts need to hold loads up to 25kN. This guide will steer you towards brands that people have been using successfully for years in Australia - it is then up to you to read the technical manuals for the product and follow the instructions exactly. Contact Neil Monteith if you need any more info. For tips on placing these bolts in a climbing environment check out the Bolting Guide. Check placing Rap Anchors as well.
You should always place the fattest and longest bolt that's practical. When you're using a power drill or bolting by hand on rappel there's no excuse for placing a flimsy bolt, and at a minimum you should use a 10mm by 50mm bolt in hard rock (Buffalo), 12mm by 75mm in medium rock (Grampians, Camels Hump, Arapiles), and a 12mm by 100mm glue-in bolt in soft rock (Werribee Gorge, Bullengarook Quarry).